Food for the Body; Food for the Soul

Eddie Gilmore • September 17, 2025

They say that an army marches on its stomach and I think the same must be true of pilgrims.


I was one of the perpetual pilgrims on the national Pilgrimage of Hope to Nottingham and the feast we were given on our first night rather set the scene for what was to come. We’d reached the shrine of Our Lady of Willesdon in North London, having been sent on our way in the morning from St Geroge’s Cathedral in Southwark with an early Mass followed by breakfast prepared by members of the CAFOD team. After setting out our sleeping bags in the hall and a mass for us in the church, some of the ladies of the parish sat us down and fed us with two types of Caribbean chicken (exquisite), Nigerian rice (equally exquisite), two types of roast potato, plus pasta and a variety of veg; followed by cakes AND singing and dancing led by one of the women. And in the morning, a Sri Lankan parishioner served us a lovely, and very healthy, breakfast, to keep us going to South Ruislip.


The church of St Gregory was our second night stopping place and Fr. Marco had organised for us quiches with a range of tasty hams, cheeses and bread: all accompanied by three bottles of eminently drinkable wine. The culinary bar had been set high but Out Lady Help of Christians in Rickmansworth didn’t disappoint. Fr Andrew joined us after mass at a beautifully laid table in the hall and we were served an Italian-style starter comprising slices of tomato and mozzarella. I must have had thirds, it was so nice, but luckily there was still room for the main course of chicken casserole with rice. And then, no fewer than three desserts: a trifle to die for, plus fruit salad and ice-cream. I had it all, and went back for more. As Oscar Wilde famously said, “I can resist everything except temptation.” That had also been the case somewhat at lunchtime, when members of the cleaning team of St Paul’s, Harefield, had given us a delightful welcome and plied us with sausage rolls, sandwiches, tea and cakes.


Day 4 to Berkhamstead was a long one: 17 miles along the towpath of the Grand Union Canal. One of the walkers told me how she’d felt like giving up at lunchtime but, with the encouragement of the group, had pressed on and had finished with a great sense of achievement and had found the experience “transformational.” Day 4 was also the one where my wife, Yim Soon cooked for us, Korean-style, in the kitchen of Sacred Heart church. One of the hungry and footsore pilgrims said it was the nicest meal she’d ever had. The following night it was pretty good too. Parishioners of Sacred Heart, Leighton Buzzard had left dishes for us and they just needed to be heated up. There was a starter of vegetable soup with nice bread, and the main course was a vegan shepherd’s pie with green beans. As on a previous day, I had thirds! But there was still room for strawberries and cream. There’s always room for strawberries and cream.


Day 6 was the one where we got taken out to a restaurant in the evening. Deacon Klaus of St Bede’s, Newport Pagnell was a friendly and generous host; and the tea and cakes on arrival after another strenuous 16-miler of a day were an especially wonderful sight to behold as I collapsed into a chair and shed boots and socks. A substantial breakfast was provided us for us as well. We needed it. Due to route diversions and missing turns a couple of times (I always say to people that getting a bit lost is all part of the pilgrimage experience) we ended up covering a whopping 19 miles on Day 7. And part of our reward in Northampton was getting taken in the evening to the homes of parishioners. Aideen and Kevin couldn’t have been kinder to us. We were able to use their shower, Aideen did our laundry (we were down to our last items), and then we were given a hearty plate of salmon, new potatoes and green beans from their garden; followed by a divine blackberry and apple crumble; and all washed down with a couple of glasses of pinot grigio.


After a well-earned rest day in Northampton, we were on our way again, and our Day 8 of walking took us away from the canal and into wide-open countryside. It also took us to Market Harborough and to yet more incredible hospitality. The kind host for Yim Soon, Anita and I was Cyprian, who explained, after we’d all had glorious showers, that his friend Basia was doing the cooking. Basia, who has run her own restaurant, told us as we took our seats at the table that she’d been taught by her Polish grandmother to cook with love. Basia had clearly been a good student, for what followed, in both presentation and taste, could not have been bettered in a Michelin starred establishment. We were given long strips of pepper filled with buckwheat, accompanied by green beans arranged around a sort of nutty mixture and with a Greek-style yogurty sauce. Cyprian assured us that this was ‘just’ the entrée and, sure enough, there was more. From the oven, Basia produced a tray of chicken pieces roasted in lemon and the sight of it was a work of art in itself, so that I simply stared at it, wide-eyed, for some time. Eating it was good too; and it was perfectly paired with a dish of potato wedges. And, deserving of such a banquet, Cyprian had opened a very good bottle of French red.


Day 9 of walking took us across freshly-ploughed fields and I’d pointed out to the group in the morning that we were pilgrims in the truest sense of a word that has its origin in the Latin pereginus, from per, meaning through, and ager, meaning field. In the days when the expression was first coined, most people would never travel much beyond their own village, except for an occasional journey to a distant holy place, which would take them literally through the fields. Our walk that day across some very soggy fields was 16 miles in length and took us to Belton in Rutland. By happy chance it was a Wednesday, the only day in the week when the local pub, The Sun Inn, does food. Yim Soon and I treated ourselves to enormous plates of lasagne, chips and salad. The fatigue and the downpours of the day were quickly forgotten.


The hospitality bar had been set sky high, and I wondered if it could continue. Oh yes, it could! In Melton Mowbray, after a stage of ‘only’ 15 miles, Yim Soon and I were hosted by Vicky and Graham, with whom we had the most convivial of evenings. On arrival, Vicky gave us tea and gigantic cookies and encouraged us to have a nice shower and relax for a while. Then at the meal table, Vicky said “Let’s go mad,” as Graham opened a bottle of fizz. For the main course of boeuf bourguignon, we moved onto a heavenly Cabernet Sauvignon (what else!) and the blackberry crumble pudding was indeed sent by the angels. Vicky and Graham were fascinated by the various walks that Yim Soon and I had done in the preceding year and they were fantastic company.


Our Day 11 of walking was another 15-miler and ended in the village of Keyworth, where parishioners of St Margaret Clitherow had prepared an Indian-theme meal. There was a huge pot of Keema Pulao, which is a sort of vegetable curry hiding underneath a layer of steaming rice. Then there was a scrumptious yogurt dish called Riata, a tomato and onion salad and piles and piles of poppadoms and naans.


That was the last evening our group would be together, for the next day we would reach our destination of Nottingham and meet up with the other three groups that had been coming from north, east and west. It was appropriate that we began to reminisce about the incredible kindness we had received on our journey. Having done now many pilgrimages, I’ve noticed how the act of being a pilgrim touches not just those walking but also those that are passed on the way. On this Pilgrimage of Hope, those we had passed had been so incredibly kind and they seemed to have delighted in that.


In case any reader gets the impression that pilgrimage is one big, happy dinner party, I should point out that walking long distances day after day and being without the normal securities and creature comforts of life can be tough. And yet, there is something utterly joyful about the experience. As usual, there was fun, there was laughter, there was singing. And yes, there was some quite remarkable food. Food for the body, food for the soul. And in the immortal words of John Bunyan, which we sang in our final mass in Nottingham’s St Barnabas Cathedral:


There’s no discouragement shall make him once relent
his first avowed intent to be a pilgrim.


Between meals Eddie Gilmore is a writer and collaborator in the Hearts in Search of God project. More information about his books here.

To Walk Takes Courage

By Joe Northam • September 17, 2025
Joe Northam decribes her experience of the first six days walking along the St Matthew's Way, the western Pilgrimage of Hope route to Nottingham.
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Pilgrimage of Hope Podcast

By Phil McCarthy • September 17, 2025
In this special edition of the All Knds of Catholic podcast Theresa Alessandro speaks with pilgrims walking the Pilgrimage of Hope.
Mario Mancini, an Italian Pilgrim to England came to Merseyside in search of the 'Apostle to England

In Search of the 'Apostle to England'

By Mario Mancini • September 16, 2025
Mario Mancini, an Italian Pilgrim to England, came to Merseyside in search of the 'Apostle to England'!

St Luke's Way (East) to Nottingham

By Phil McCarthy • September 15, 2025
St Luke's Way The eastern Pilgrimage of Hope Way from the Cathedral Church of St John the Baptist in Norwich to the Cathedral Church of St Barnabas in Nottingham via the National Shrine of Our Lady at Houghton St Giles and the Pontifical Shrine of Our Lady of Walsingham at King's Lynn. Patron : Julian of Norwich (c. 1343 – after 1416) English anchoress, mystic and theologian. Julian's writings, now known as Revelations of Divine Love, are the earliest surviving English-language works attributed to a woman. They are also the only surviving works by an anchoress in English. Her feast is celebrated on 13 th May. Overview St Luke's Way starts at the Cathedral of St John the Baptist, Norwich, leaving the city along the Marriotts Way, crossing the River Wensum towards Cawston, then taking the Pilgrim Cross route to Walsingham along country lanes to the National Shrine to Our Lady at Houghton St Giles. From Walsingham the Way follows tracks and lanes to Dersingham and then crosses the Sandringham estate to King's Lynn. The Way continues alongside the Great Ouse to Wisbech, then across fenland to Spalding and Bourne. The Way uses roads and footpaths to navigate the rolling countryside of Kesteven to Grantham, then follows the Grantham canal near Belvoir Castle across farmland to Bingham, joining the Trent Valley Way at Radcliffe, to arrive at St Barnabas' Cathedral in Central Nottingham. Essential facts: Route length: 155.4 miles Ascent: 1,883 ft Peak elevation: 443 ft (the route is generally flat) The Way can be followed using a GPX file (download below).

St John's Way (South) to Nottingham

By Phil McCarthy • September 15, 2025
St John's Way The southern Pilgrimage of Hope Way from Southwark and Westminster Cathedrals in London to St Barnabas' Cathedral in Nottingham via the Cathedral of Our Lady Immaculate & St Thomas of Canterbury in Northampton. Patron : St Anne Line (c. 1563 – 1601): English married lay woman, convert and martyr. After the death of her husband, who had been banished for attending Mass, Anne was active in sheltering clandestine Catholic priests. Finally arrested, she was condemned to death and executed at Tyburn. She was canonised in 1970. Her feasts are: 27th February (individual), 25th October (with the Forty Martyrs of England & Wales), 30th August (with SS Margaret Ward and Margaret Clitherow). Overview The Way starts at the Cathedral of St George in Southwark and crosses the River Thames to reach Westminster Cathedral. It then passes through Royal parks to the Shrine of the Tyburn Martyrs. At Paddington the Grand Union Canal is reached. Apart from optional diversions to churches the Canal arm is followed to Northolt where the Way joins the Dog Rose Ramble and then the Hillingdon Trail. At Bayhurst Woods the Way diverts W to Harefield and soon rejoins the Grand Union Canal. Apart from diversions to Rickmansworth, Abbots Langley (birthplace of Adrian IV, the only English pope), and Leighton Buzzard the Canal is followed to Newport Pagnall. After the town the route follows the Three Shires Way, then the Midshires Way, the Northamptonshire Round and finally the Nene Way to Northampton Cathedral. The path leaves the city and rejoins the Midshires Way to Arthingworth and soon after follows the Brampton Valley Way to Market Harborough. The Way continues N on the Rutland Way and then the Leicestershire Round. Where this bends W the path follows the Jubilee Way to Melton Mowbray. The Way crosses farmland to reach Willoughby-in-the-Wolds where it breifly re-joins the Midshires Way before diverting to Keyworth. The Way heads towards Nottingham, briefly following a disused railway line, to finally reach Nottingham Cathedral. Essential facts: Route length: 169.4 miles Ascent: 4,669 ft - the route is mostly very flat Peak elevation: 656 ft The Way can be followed using a GPX file (download below)

St Matthew's Way (West) to Nottingham

By Phil McCarthy • September 15, 2025
St Matthew's Way The western Pilgrimage of Hope Way from St David's Cathedral in Cardiff to St Barnabas' Cathedral in Nottingham via St Chad's Cathedral in Birmingham and the Shrine of St Chad in Lichfield. Patron: St Melangell (c 7th or 8th Century) Welsh hermit, consecrated virgin and abbess. According to her hagiography, Melangell was a princess who fled an arranged marriage and became a consecrated virgin in the wilderness of Powys. She saved a hare from a prince's hunting dogs and is associated with protection of wildlife. Her feast is celebrated on 27th May. Overview: The Way starts at St David's Cathedral in Cardiff. The route soon joins the Welsh Coast Path to Newport and then Chepstow. Here the Way turns inland following the Offa's Dyke Path through the Wye Valley to Monmouth. The route follows the Wye Valley Walk to Ross-on-Wye where the Way joins the Herefordshire Trail to Ledbury. The Geopark Way and the Three Choirs Way (3CW) are followed over the Malvern Hills. After Malvern the Way continues on the 3CW until the River Severn is crossed and followed to Worcester. The Monarch's Way is followed to Droitwich Spa and then the Wychavon Way and John Corbett Way to Bromsgrove Spa. Here the Monarch's Way is regained until just before Illey the Way diverts into central Birmingham along the Illey Way. From the Cathedral of St Chad in Birmingham the Way follows the St Chad's Way , at first along canal towpaths. The Way passes through Sutton Coldfield before joining the Heart of England Way to Lichfield. The route joins the Trent & Mersey Canal towpath to Burton upon Trent and then on to Sawley. Here the Way diverts to Long Eaton and then follows the Way of Blessed Cyprian Tansi along the Broxtowe Country Trail and finally the Beeston Canal towpath to central Nottingham and the Cathedral of St Barnabas. Essential facts: Route length: 210.2 miles Ascent: 10,955 ft Peak elevation: 1,378 ft The Way can be followed using a GPX file (download button below).

St Mark's Way (North) to Nottingham

By Phil McCarthy • September 15, 2025
St Mark's Way The northern Pilgrimage of Hope Way from Leeds Cathedral to St Barnabas' Cathedral in Nottingham via St Marie's Cathedral in Sheffield and the Chapel of the Padley Martyrs. Patron: St Hilda of Whitby (c. 614 – 680) abbess and key figure in the Anglo-Saxon Church. Hilda founded and was the first abbess of the monastery at Whitby which was the venue for the Synod of Whitby in 664. She was widely recognised for her wisdom and learning and trained five bishops. Her feast is celebrated on 17th November. Overview: The Way starts at Leeds Cathedral and follows the Transpennine Trail (TPT) SE beside the Aire & Calder Navigation to Woodlesford. Here the path veers SW to re-join the TPT along a disused railway line and then the River Calder to Wakefield. The Way follows the TPT again beside the former Barnsley Canal and then along a disused railway to Wombwell. The route turns SW along the Barnsley Boundary Walk to Elsecar, and then across farmland to briefly join the Old Salt Rd, beside the A629. The Way soon joins the Sheffield Country Walk and follows this beside the Sheffield Canal to reach St Marie's Cathedral in central Sheffield. From here the Way joins the Padley Martyrs Way , leaving the city through Endcliffe Park and then climbing Houndkirk Moor to arrive at the Chapel of the Padley Martyrs. The path then follows the River Derwent to Matlock. The Way leaves the Derwent at Ambergate and turns east, through Ripley and then along the former Cromford Canal to Eastwood. Here the route joins the Robin Hood Way to Strelley where the Way veers E to Kingsbury and finally reaches St Barnabas' Cathedral, central Nottingham. Essential facts: Route length: 105.9 miles Ascent 3,750 ft: The route is mostly flat with the only significant climb on Day 4 over Houndkirk Moor Peak elevation: 1,388 ft The Way can be followed using a GPX file (download below).

The National Pilgrimage of Hope is starting!

By Joe Northam • August 27, 2025
Joe Northam explains how she came to be involved in the Pilgrimage of Hope. She is walking the St Matthew's Way from Cardiff to Nottingham. When I heard about the Pilgrimage of Hope, a walking Pilgrimage which will mark England and Wales with the sign of the cross, I really wanted to get involved. At that time, I didn’t imagine that I would end up being a perpetual pilgrim walking (nearly) all 210 miles of the Western route. I offered to help recce the planned route. I love walking and I was looking for an opportunity to spend time alone with God, and checking the route seemed to bring those things together. However, as soon as I met with Phil, who has planned the Pilgrimage , and voiced my enthusiasm for the project I felt that, perhaps, I could do more. I just needed a bit of flexibility to accommodate the needs of my family, and being assured of that I began to discuss with my husband just how involved I could get! The first of my preparatory walks along the route began from my neighbouring parish in Harborne back in December 2024. Nine months later we prepare to embark from Cardiff. The journey ahead feels just daunting enough that we know that God needs to lead us. By we, I mean both the team of perpetual pilgrims - Phil, Faith, Jim, Dave, Catherine and myself - and the many day pilgrims who will join us for part of the way. Our ‘ St Matthew’s Way ’ takes us from the coastal paths of Wales, through the Wye Valley and across the Malvern Hills to Worcester. Then to Birmingham and from there to Lichfield and along the canals to Nottingham. It will be beautiful, varied and deeply ingrained with Christian heritage. When we met in London in May, we as a team shared our desire to meet God on the journey, not just in the glorious cathedrals and the splendour of nature, but in other people. For myself the opportunity of spending two weeks in community with the perpetual pilgrims is a challenge and a privilege. I began my Catholic life as a part of a youth community in the Nottingham Diocese and I know that the formation and growth of a shared life is not like anything else. Each day pilgrim will become a part of this sharing, bringing a unique life experience. Some may bring a testimony of God’s call on their life, others may arrive simply interested by the concept of pilgrimage and unaware of the hand of God in their life. My prayer is that each of us finishes our journey more hopeful than we began. Something I learned at the start of this liturgical year, this year of Jubilee , is that hope is a theological virtue. My understanding is that this means that it is a ‘supernatural’ virtue rather than a ‘natural’ one, something imparted by God, rather than something we attain by a muscular effort. So when we feel hopeless, it seems to me, all that we can do is to create the conditions in which God can give us his gift. For me, openness to God never seems more possible than when I am walking. A combination of being in wild spaces, knowing that I am part of the creation and the rhythm of walking, putting one foot in front of the other strips away what distracts me like so much dross. At the start of this Jubilee Year Pope Francis encouraged Catholics to consider undertaking a pilgrimage. For me there is something special about making a pilgrimage on foot but for some people that will not be possible. However, the intentional following of God to a place of prayer is something which is open to everyone. May our encounters with him on the way give us hope and allow us to bring hope to others. Joe Northam is a parishioner of Our Lady of Good Counsel and St Gregory the Great, Bearwood, Birmingham. This blog was first published on the website of the Archdiocese of Birmingham . In the Archdiocese of Birmingham the Pilgrimage will include visits to St Joseph, Malvern; St George, Worcester; St Peter, Bromsgrove; St Mary, Harborne; Holy Trinity, Sutton Coldfield; Holy Cross, Lichfield and SS Mary & Modwen, Burton on Trent (between Thursday 4 and Thursday 11 September). Please pray for all those taking part.

Join the Pilgrimage of Hope final celebrations in Nottingham!

By Phil McCarthy • August 20, 2025
Join the Welcoming Liturgy and concluding Solemn Mass Whether you walk or not, come to the Cathedral on 13th September and enjoy a fitting celebration of the Jubilee Year. Meet pilgrims who arrive throughout the afternoon from 3.00 p.m. The Cathedral will be hosting Heritage Open Days with tours, a mini-pilgrimage of the building, and CAFOD’s Jubilee Icon on display. At 5.00 p.m. join Bishop Patrick in a welcoming liturgy to give thanks for the safe arrival of those who have travelled far. Having spent two weeks walking from different corners England and Wales, the four groups of pilgrims will have completed their ‘Sign of the Cross’ over the country. The Pilgrimage will culminate at 11.15 a.m. on Sunday 14 September with Solemn Mass in the Cathedral for the Feast of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross. Refreshments are available afterwards in the Cathedral Hall. All are welcome. The Welcoming Liturgy and concluding Mass will be livestreamed here .

A Self-Guided Pilgrimage through Birmingham City Centre

By Emily Pugh • August 15, 2025
Go into the heart of Birmingham on a reflective journey created by Father Hudson’s Caritas!