To mark the 800th anniversary of the death of St Francis of Assisi the Society of St Francis, SSF, organised a 700-mile ‘Peace Pilgrimage’ in England entitled ‘On New Roads.’

The whole route would go from the North East to the South. It would last 79 days and take in the various Franciscan friaries and convents en route, besides many churches and cathedrals. Yim Soon suggested that we join for eight days through what appeared to be the most beautiful stretch and I readily agreed.

We duly met up with the group in New Mills, just south of Manchester. As the name suggests, it’s an old mill town and it’s spectacularly situated in a valley surrounded on every side by high moors. We arrived, happily, just in time for a prayerful mass in the church, in the appropriately named ‘St Francis’ chapel,’ and a meal that had been cooked by Owain the vicar and served by parishioners. Thus had we already benefited from three of the things that were to sustain us on the pilgrim path: hospitality, good food, and rich liturgy. There was a LOT of tea and cake to boot, and just when we’d managed to polish off the flapjack and lemon drizzle cake provided by one church, one further along the route would supply us with chocolate cake and banana bread.

A fourth element of pilgrimage, gratitude, was evident for me the following morning in a slightly unexpected way. Most people would be sleeping on the floor of the church hall but Owain had offered the opportunity to spend the night in the church and Yim Soon and I seized the chance.   

As I’ve experienced in the past, there’s something rather peaceful about sleeping in a church and there’s something special about waking up in a church. On this occasion, the first thing I saw in the morning was an attractive stained-glass window depicting the three kings adoring the baby Jesus. I lay there revelling in the green of their robes and in the blue of Mary’s dress. I was also grateful for simply waking up. As I explained later in the week to church groups to whom we spoke, there have been nights on pilgrimage when I haven’t slept at all, so to wake up means that I’ve slept at least a bit! And I’ve found that even if it’s not the best sleep I’ll ever have, it’s enough, more than enough, and an indication that we can be very happy with very little.

The wonderful scenery is similarly a tonic for the spirit. After initially following an old railway line, the path from New Mills rose steeply and from our picnic spot, up on the moors, we could see all the way to Manchester in one distant direction and the top of Kinder Scout in the other. At the bottom of the well-known ‘Jacob’s Ladder’ on our descent, it was a thrill to cast off boots and socks and put our feet in the river.

We eventually arrived into the village of Edale, which marks the start of the Pennine Way. It was wonderful to be back in the Peak District, a place which holds many special memories for me. Yim Soon and I had recently walked up Mam Tor so it was special to pass that on our way to Tideswell.

We were welcomed in that charming village by Fiona the vicar, who led us in both evening and morning prayer in the impressive church which is known as the ‘Cathedral of the Peaks.’ By that point we had found our singing voices and were producing some great sounds and harmonies, especially with Taizé chants. A particular highlight on the choral front came a few days later when we sang ‘Laudate Omnes Gentes’ in three parts in a cave in Millers Dale.

As ever, interesting conversations are had with interesting characters, and that’s not only with ones fellow pilgrims! One day we were at a gate and wondering if we were on the right path, as it appeared to cross a private garden. We could see a woman in that garden and a man coming towards us with a dog! He beckoned for us to take the path and was curious to know who we were. Then he asked if we’d like a cold drink. On that day the afternoon temperature had dropped to a ‘mere’ 28 degrees and we were totally ready for a cold drink. There ensued the most enjoyable and convivial half hour with this couple. Will and Lisa sat us down in padded seats in their garden (with amazing views over the Derbyshire dales) and served us ice-cold cans of ‘Seven Up zero’ and a large jug of Vimto, before sending us on our way with ice lollies. Will had also given a book to one of the group.

The website for ‘On New Roads’ asks, ‘Are you seeking a meaningful journey that nourishes the soul and deepens your connection to something greater?’ Our souls were nourished indeed by that encounter with Will and Lisa and in so many other ways during those eight days. And, as always seems to happen on pilgrimage, there were so many profound connections.

Besides living a life of simplicity, St Francis sought to be in harmony with the earth and with all those he encountered. It’s not unlike what can take place on the pilgrim path. And how blessed Yim Soon and I were to play a small part in this Franciscan Peace Pilgrimage.

Eddie Gilmore is a Hearts in Search of God collaborator. More about Eddie and his books can be found here.