A Pilgrimage along the Whiting Way
On a cloudless morning in July 2023 I headed out of Clifton Cathedral, over the Clifton Suspension Bridge, and up into open countryside with a small group of pilgrims. We were the first walkers to step out onto the Whiting Way, a pilgrim path between Clifton and Glastonbury, one of 22 routes that form part of the ‘Hearts in Search of God’ project.
Together with Phil McCarthy, the ‘Hearts in Search of God’ founder, we were about to embark on a three-day hike that, over 37 miles, would see us journey through pretty villages, conquer some not insubstantial hills, marvel at spectacular views, pass by one of England’s finest cathedrals, stroll along verdant Somerset lanes, brave torrential showers, and finally make the breathless climb up Glastonbury Tor.
Along the way there was time for prayers, conversation, conviviality at wayside watering holes, and the partaking of refreshments generously provided by kindly hosts. There was also time for an al fresco fish-and-chip supper at Chew Magna at the end of Day One before those of us who were roughing it (like ‘true’ pilgrims?) lay down our sleeping bags on a hard church-hall floor.
All this is captured in my short, 3-minute video that follows our journey from Clifton to Chew Magna, then to Wells, and onwards for the final clamber up Glastonbury Tor. The walk completed, we sat with our backs to the iconic church tower – all that remains of the medieval church dedicated to St Michael the Archangel – and looked down over the Somerset Levels and the rolling green fields stretching into the distance.
As you can see from the video, we weren’t alone. Picnicking families, groups of chatting friends, and young couples taking selfies were scattered here and there on the summit enjoying the view, the sunshine, and the welcoming breeze. It seemed such a peaceful, benevolent landscape that it was hard to imagine the scene that unfolded on this very same spot six centuries earlier. For it was here, on a bleak November day in 1539, where Somerset’s last abbot, Richard Whiting, met his death on the groaning gallows at the behest of Henry VIII.
Times have moved on, and Richard Whiting is largely unknown to those who come to Glastonbury seeking Arthurian legends, New Age wisdom, and earth mysteries. Still, walking a pilgrim route that carries his name is one way of ensuring he’s not forgotten.
Anne Bailey is a research associate at the History Faculty at Oxford University. She has longstanding interest in pilgrimage.
Her Pilgrimage YouTube channel can be found at: https://www.youtube.com/@DrAnneEBailey-df4pr/videos
